Fade vs taper: the difference, and which to ask for

What is the difference between a fade and a taper?

A fade takes the sides and back down to the skin or very close to it, so the hair disappears into the skin. A taper gets gradually shorter toward the neck and ears but keeps some length at the bottom. Both blend from longer on top to shorter at the sides; the difference is how far down they go. A fade reads sharper and more modern; a taper reads cleaner and more classic, and it grows out more gracefully.

Which types are there?

Both are named for where the shortest part starts.

Low

Starts just above the ear. Subtle, suits most faces and most offices.

Mid

Starts around the temples. The most common choice.

High

Starts near the top of the head. Strong contrast, and it makes the top look taller.

Skin or bald fade

Goes to the skin at the bottom. Sharpest, but needs a touch-up every two to three weeks.

Scissor taper

Done with scissors instead of clippers. Softer, and leaves more weight at the sides.

Which suits my face shape?

Short sides make a face look narrower and the top look taller. A round or square face suits a mid or high fade, which adds height. A long face suits a low taper that keeps some width at the sides; a high skin fade lengthens it further. An oval face can wear either. If you do not know your shape, the face-shape guide takes two minutes.

Which suits my hair?

Thick hair suits either, but it bulks out quickly, so a fade keeps the shape longer. Fine or thinning hair usually looks fuller with a taper, because a skin fade shows more scalp beside the top; see haircuts for thinning hair. Curly and coily hair suit both; a fade with a defined line-up is the classic shape.

What exactly should I ask for?

Say three things: where it starts, how short it goes, and how much to leave on top. For example: "a mid taper, down to a #1 at the neck, blended to a #3 at the temples, about 5 cm on top". Guards are eighths of an inch: a #1 is about 3 mm, a #2 about 6 mm, a #3 about 10 mm. The consultation guide lists the rest of the words barbers use.

How often does each need a cut?

A skin fade loses its sharpness in two to three weeks; a clipper taper holds for three to four; a scissor taper can go four to six. If you will not visit that often, choose a taper.